Process for detensioning fabrics and the yarns or threads of which the fabric is composed



y 1943- F. R. REDMAN 2,325,54 PROCESS FOR DETENSIONING FABRICS AND THEmms OR THREADS OF WHICH THE FABRIC IS COMPOSED Filed Aug. 28, 1941 6SheetsSheet l July 27, 1943.- F. R. REDMAN 2,325,544

PROCESS FOR DETENSIONING FABRICS AND THE YARNS 0R THREADS OF WHICH THEFABRIC IS COMPOSED Filed Aug. 28. 1941 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 6 Sheets-Sheet 3Wm k F. R. REDMAN PROCESS FOR DETENSIONING FABRICS AND THE YARNS ORTHREADS OF WHICH THE FABRIC IS COMPOSED Filed Aug. 28, 1941 July 27,1943.

1943- F. R. REDMAN 2,325,544 PROCESS FOR DETENSIONING FABRICS AND THEYARNS OR THREADS OF WHICH THE FABRIC IS COMPOSED Filed Aug. 28, 1941 6Sheets-Sheet 4 July 27, 1943. F. R. REDMAN 2 PROCESS FOR DETENSIONINGFABRICS AND THE YARNS OR THREADS OF WHICH THE FABRIC IS COMPOSED FiledAug. 28, 1941 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented July 27, 1943 PROCESS FORDETENSIONING FABRICS AND THE YARNS R. THREADS OF WHICH THE FABRIC ISCOMPOSED Frank R. Redman, Yardley, Pa. Application August 28, 1941,Serial No. 408,616

17 Claims.

This invention primarily relates to a process for treating textilefabrics, to control theamount of shrinkage in a finished fabric, or atapredetermined stage in the finishing of the goods, in order that thefabric, or articles made therefrom, may be accurately described as beingnonshrinkable" or having less than 2% shrinkage etc., according to thedemand made upon the commercial finisher.

The process is adapted for use with woven, knitted, braided, netted,twist-lace and other varieties of textile fabrics, made of cotton, wool,artificial silk, etc., or combinations thereof, in fiat-sheet, tubular,or strip form.

Most natural textile fibres, prior to being formed into yarns orthreads, have at least some inherent irregularities, such as spiraltwists, wavy edges, sharp bends, easy curves, kinks, etc., throughoutthe length of each individual fibre.

In the case of synthetic fibres, such as artificial silk and othersubstitutes for natural silk, commercially known as Rayon, Nylon, etc.,the filaments, as formed, are substantially straight. In some instancesthese filaments are cut into staple lengths, corresponding to cotton orwool, for use alone or for mixing with other fibres. During theformation of these synthetic filaments or fibres into yarns they aretwisted together and thereby assume spiral twists, curves or otherdeviations from the purely straight character of the original filament.These assumed irregularities, after the fibres have been twistedtogether in a yarn or thread and processed, take on a permanent setwhich closely approaches the permanent set of the inherentirregularities of natural fibres, insofar as the fibres, if tensionedand then released, will reassume their irregular form rather than returnto the purely straight line character of the origi nal filament.

During the formation of the natural fibres into yarns or threads, thepermanent or set irregularities of the individual fibres are temporarilyreduced to some extent, as a result of tension under which the fibresare placed and maintained.

During the fabrication of the yarns, composed of natural or syntheticfibres, into a fabric, and as a result of the more or less tightinterengaging relationship of the yarns or parts of yarns with eachother in a finished fabric, the degree of tightness depending upon thecharacter of the fabric and the mode of fabrication, the extent of thepermanent irregularities of the individual fibres of which theinterengaging yarn parts are composed are further reduced and held inthat abnormal condition, with the permanent twists, kinks, bends,curves, etc., of a large percentage of the fibres practicallystraightened out.

In the course of bleaching, dyeing, and other processing, a fabricfrequently gains a considerable amount in length, as a result of thetension under which the fabric is maintained. This further reduces theextent of the set irregularities of the individual fibres.

I have found, by extensive research, that the above noted conditions areresponsible for subsequent shrinkage of the fabric each time the fabricis laundered, in bulk or after having been made up into garments and/orother articles of various kinds, such as mens and boys shirts,underwear, sweaters, tablecloths, mattress and furniture covers, etc.,for several washings. I

have found that such shrinkage will continue until the setirregularities of the natural or synthetic fibres return to theindividual fibres.

I have also found, as a result of further extensive research, that allor any predetermined part of the manufacturing and processing gain,resulting from the above noted condition of the fibres, can be removedfrom the fabric at one time, and subsequent shrinkage eliminated, by

treating the fabric in a manner to permit the twists, kinks, bends andcurves to return to the individual fibres.

Taking cotton as an example, the raw fibres, when examined under amicroscope, are found in some instances to be in the formof spirallytwisted bands and of substantially fiat, rectangular cross-section withirregular wavy edges. In other instances, the fibres appear to be in theform of hollow tubes of various cross-sectional shapes and of anirregular, wavy formation throughout the length of the fibre.

When the fibres are in their original form, as harvested, the twists,bends and curves, etc., of the fibres are set therein, and while suchirregularities may be temporarily decreased or entirely removed when thefibre is placed under tension, such irregularities will return instantlyupon release of such tension from the fibre. Wool fibres, like cotton,include irregular undulations throughout the length of each fibre.

In preparing cotton, for example, for use in weaving, knitting, etc.,the fibres, after ginning and willowing to remove seeds and dirt, areput through a number of operations known generally as cotton spinning,which includes mixing, opening and picking, carding, drawing, slubbing,roving, spinning, doubling, slashing, etc.

' thread is held under longitudinal tension while the Sizing is appliedto the outer surface thereof and dried. The drying of the sizing on thetensioned yarn keeps the fibres under tension, after the tension on theyarn as a whole has been released. During the slashing operation, a yarnfrequently gains in length from 2% to 7%, due to the tension under whichthe yarn.is held.

In weaving a fabric, the yarns are divided into warps and wefts(filling). The warps are under high tension at all times during theweaving operation. The warps are divided into at least two series, whichare raised and lowered alternately to provide open sheds for receivingthe filling, which latter is carried across the warp under some degreeof tension by shuttles or needles, hooks, etc., depending upon the typeof loom employed. The tension on the filling is increased when the warpshed changes to bind in each newly inserted Weft. Thus, all the threadsor yarns are placed and held under tension in the woven fabric.

In knitting, the thread is maintained under tension when fed to theneedles of the knitting machine, and although this tension may bereduced to some extent as the newly formed stitches are cast from theneedles, there still remains a certain amount of tension in the yarnwhen the fabric is removed from the knitting machine.

In braided fabrics, the interlacing of the various threads is effectedwith the threads under relatively high tension and, due to this tension,the interengaging relationship of the yarn parts holds the fibres in anunnatural condition, in the same general manner as in Woven or knittedfabrics.

After a fabric is completed on a loom, knitting machine, braidingmachine, etc., it is subjected to a finishing process in which it maygain 10% or more in length. Cotton shirtings, for example, are bleached,dyed and finished. In the bleachery, the fabric is singed, while heldunder tension in a fiat open form. The fabric is then wetted and reducedto a rope form. From the singeing house, which is more or less remotelysituated with respect to the bleaching as a matter of precaution againstspread of fire. the rope of fabric may be pulled through pot eyes adistance of from 50 to 300 feet, to a keir in the bleach house, undertension. In the keir the fabric is packed and boiled. From the keir thefabric rope is pulled, under tension, to a washing machine, throughwhich the fabric passes at least five times while held under extremelyhigh tension. The fabric is then opened up again into a flat form andpassed through a mangle, while being held under high tension.

From the mangle the fabric is passed, under tension, about a series ofdrying cylinders, known as a can drier. From the drier, the flattenedfabric may pass to and through a mercerizing solution, after which it isagain reduced to a rope form for passage three or more times through thewashing machine, under high tension. From the washing machine the fabricagain returns to the keir for another boiling. After this treatment inthe keir, the fabric is again run in rope form. under high tension,through the washing machine at least five times. From the washingmachine the fabric rope may be run through a bleaching solution andsubsequently given at least two more washings, under high tension. Thefabric is then spread out and run through a mangle from which it passesto and through a loop drier or around the cylinders of a cam drierpreparatory to dyeing or starching, under high tension constantly.

If the fabric is to be dyed, it is held out fiat, under high tension, inorder that the dye will enter it evenly, without streaking. If the clothis to be starched, it is likewise held out fiat, under high tension, topermit the starch to spread uniformly.

After dyeing or starching, etc., the cloth is applied to a tenter frameto pull it out to uniform predetermined width, under heavy tension, for

final drying.

From the foregoing, it will be clear that from the time the treatment ofthe fibres begins until the fabric is finished, the fibres are held,constantly, under longitudinal strain.

In order to prevent the fabric from shrinking after it has been made upinto garments, etc., it is essential that the gain which the yarns andthe fabric attain during manufacture be eradicated, and that the tense,abnormal condition of the fibres of the yarns be nullified.

Briefly, the process by which such eradication and nullification areaccomplished, according to the present invention in its broadest aspect,consists in intermittently placing the fabric under longitudinal andtransverse compression, in the plane of the fabric, and then permittingit to relax, while applying moist heat to the fabric.

The invention also relates to apparatus by which the method may be putinto practical use. It will be readily conceivable that many differentforms of apparatus may be utilized within the scope of the invention,insofar as the method is concerned.

The method and one or more forms of apparatus will be more fullydisclosed, in detail, hereinafter, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, of which:

Fig. 1 illustrates a yarn or thread composed of textile fibres havingset irregularities by which the individual fibres when relieved oftension will inherently deviate from a purely rectilinear form;

Fig. 2 illustrates a greatly magnified fragmentary portion of the yarnor thread of Fig. 1, showing the component fibres under longitudinaltension comparable to that of the fibres in a fabric prior to undergoingtreatment in accordance with the principles of the present invention, 1.e., with set irregularities of the fibres materially reduced in extent;

Fig. 3 illustrates the yarn or thread of Fig. 2 after treatment of thefabric according to the present invention, 1. e. with the setirregularities returned to the individual fibres;

Figs. 4a, 4b, 4c and 4d collectively constitute a sectional plan view ofone form of apparatus adapted for use under the methodof the presentinvention;

Figs. 5a, 5b, 5c and 5:2 collectively constitute a vertical longitudinalsectional elevation through the portions of the structure shown in Figs.4a, 4b, 4c and 4d respectively;

Fig. 6 is a transverse section on the line 5-6, Fig. 5a;

Fig. '7 is a transverse section on the line 'l-I, Fig. 5c; and

asas wi Fig. 81s a diagrammatic plan view of a modified form ofapparatus.

The yarn or thread A, shown in Fig. 1, is composed of a multiplicity ofintertwisted individual fibres a, a, of long, short, or intermediatelength, depending upon the use to which the yarn or thread is to be putand the class and quality of the fabric in which the yarn or thread isto be incorporated.

As shown in Fig. 2, the individual fibres a, a, when the yarn or threadis under tension, are relatively straight and in general parallelrelation to each other.

As shown in Fig. 3, the fibres a a when the yarn is relieved of tension,return to their set irregularly wavy, twisted, kinked, sharply bent, oreasy curved condition.

When the fibres are in the strained, abnormal condition illustrated inFig. 2, the fabric will have a tight, relatively harsh feel or hand asit is commonly termed in the art; whereas, when the fibres return totheir set irregular condition, illustrated in Fig. 3, the fabric willhave a softer, fuller feeling.

The transition of the fibres from the condition illustrated in Fig. 2 tothe condition illustrated in Fig. 3, is attained by working the fabric,and

consequently the individual fibres, constantly, in the presence of moistheat, with the fabric in a fully relaxed state. This working ispreferably carried on in such a manner that the fabric, in relativelysmall spaced local areas thereof, is bunched up and then released,repeatedly, by which the fibres are placed under more or lesslongitudinal compression, intermittently, and are then permitted torelax. These localized areas are distributed over the length and breadthof the fabric and their relative positions are changed constantly sothat the entire area of the fabric receives the treatment repeatedly.The loose, free, relaxed condition of the fabric, as a whole, permitsthe bunching up of the fabric in adjacent local areas without placing thfabric lying intermediate spaced local areas under any tensionwhatsoever, at any time.

In order to work over the entire length of a continuous strip or web offabric, I prefer to advance the fabric lengthwise along an elongatedtable, by pushing the fabric, at all times, which produces the abovenoted bunching of the fabric and the consequent intermittentlongitudinal compression of the individual fibres.

As the fabric is pushed in the direction of its length along the worktable, it is also pushed inwardly from both of its marginal edges,simultaneously or alternately, which contributes to the bunching actionabove referred to and places the fibres of any threads which extendtransversely of the fabric (filling for example) under lengthwisecompression at the same time as the fibres of the longitudinal threads(warps for example) are placed under lengthwise compression.

The above noted lateral inward pushing and bunching of the fabric isrepeated a number of times as the fabric is pushed longitudinally alongthe work table, and, intermediate these inward pushings, the fabric maybe spread laterally, outwardly, without being tensioned.

In Figs. 5a, 5b, and 5c, the elongated work table, referred to above, isillustrated at I. As illustrated in Figs. 4a, 4b, and 4c, the work tableI is provided with veritical side walls 2 and 3, respectively, whichextend from said table upwardly to a roof structure 4, spaced above thetable i,

and which therewith form a closed processing chamber 5.

At spaced intervals throughout the length of the processing chamber I,and extending transversely thereof, are three series of rotary buncherunits 6a, 5b, 6c, in the present instance, of which there may be as manyor as few individual units in each series as desired or necessary forany particular job.

Associated with the three series of rotary buncher units 6a, 6b, 6c,arethree series of stationary buncher units Ia, 1b and 10; respectively.

Following each series of bunchers 6a, la; 61), lb; 60, 1c; is a transferroll 8a, 8b or 80, as the case may be.

Each rotary buncher 6a, 6b or Be, as the case may be, comprises acentral axially elongated hub section 9 which preferably extendscompletely across the chamber 5, between and, if desired, beyond theside walls 2 and 3. Projecting radially from and arranged in a spiralcourse around and along each hub section 9 is a series of resilientfingers I0, the tips of which, as the buncher revolves about itshorizontal axis, makes light but firm contact with the work table I orany piece of fabric spread out or lying thereon.

At the feed end I5 of the chamber 5, is a pair of resilient faced rollsII and I2 which receive a fabric F in full width and in a substantiallysmooth, fiat condition. The rolls II and I2 pass the fabric F into thebite of a pair of parallel conveyor belts I3 and I4. These belts I3I4deliver the fabric onto the upper end of a downwardly inclined portionIa of the stationary work table I. As the belts I3-I4 continue to feedthe fabric F onto the incline Ia, the fabric slides down said incline,by gravity, and builds up in folds f along said incline.

As the number of folds f increases, the weight of the fabric lying onthe incline Ia forces the folds I alon a contiguous horizontal portionlb of the work table I, until the folded fabric comes under the rotatingfingers ID of the first rota buncher 6a.

The fabric F, in entering the chamber 5, may be in a dry or moist state.A moisture content amounting to not more than of the dry weight persquare yard of the fabric is preferred. As the folds f of the fabric Fslide down the incline I 0., onto and along the flat part lb of thetable I, they come under the influence of moist heat in the form ofsteam sprays I611, impinging thereon from a transversely extending steampipe Ila. The steam sprays I 6a. warm and moisten the fabric as it comesunder the influence of the first rotary buncher 6a. As the folds advancedownwardly along the incline la, the

longitudinally extending fibres, i. e. the fibres of the threads whichextend longitudinally of the fabric, are placed under a longitudinalcompression which is provided b the weight of the fabric pushing thefolds 1 down the incline I a.

As the folds f advance toward the finger III of the rotary buncher So,these fingers, one after another, press into the folds f and advance thefabric further along the horizontal portion lb of the work table I. Asshown in Fig. 4a, the fingers III are arranged spirally about the hub 9and in successively contacting the transversely extending fold f, thefingers I0 break up such transverse folds into local relatively spaced,irregularly distributed bunches of fabric, indicated at f The frictionaleffect caused by the fabric being pushed along the horizontal portion lbof the work table I, by the fingers III of the first rotary buncher 6a,places the longitudinal fibres in the local bunches I under increasedlongitudinal compression. A the fingers I0 successively move out ofcontact with the fabric F. and the forward movement of the fabricbunches f by the respective fingers ID, ID ceases, the bunches 1'produced by the fingers are permitted to relax. Thus, the intermittentcompressions and relaxations in the local areas of the fabric areeffected.

The forward progression of the fabric as a, whole is retarded by thefabric coming in contact with the forwardly inclined face of the firststationar buncher la. The buncher Ia. is in the form of a transverselyextending inverted vshaped ridge formed in or on the work table I. Theupper edge of the stationary buncher la is low at the central portion ofthe work table 6 and is inclined upwardly and rearwardly, with respectto the direction of progress of the fabric, from the center of the worktable I toward each of the side walls 2 and 3. The stationary buncherIa, presents a vertical concave dam or barricade to the progress of thefabric passing along the work table I.

As the fabric builds up against the stationary buncher la, it is pushedup the forwardly inclined face thereof and over the top edge of thebarricade, by the advancing action produced in the fabric by the firstrotary buncher 60,. As the fabric slides over the concave upper edge ofthe barricade la, the marginal edges of the fabric, those portionsintermediate the marginal edges, and the central part of the fabric,tend to slide down the lateral inclines of the upper edge of thebarricade lying adjacent the opposite sides respectively of the worktable I, toward the center thereof as a result of the downwardlyconverging inclinations of the vertical concave upper edge of thestationary barricade la.

The inward transverse movement of the fabn'c, as afforded by the concavesurface of the stationary buncher Ia, tends to produce local bunching ofthe fabric transversely thereof, in conjunction with the local bunchingproduced by the longitudinal advancement of ,the fabric by the rotarybuncher 6a. This action places the transverse fibres, or the fibres ofthe transversely extending threads of the fabric, under longitudinalcompression. At the same time, the transverse bunchin reduces theoverall width of the forwardly advancing fabric.

As the fabric is advanced over the first stationary buncher Ia, itslides down the forward inclined face thereof toward the secondaryrotary the influence of the fingers III of the second rotary buncher 6a.

The fingers II). of the second rotary buncher 6a are in offset orstaggered relation, or in some other predetermined irregularrelationship with respect to the fingers I0 of the first rotary buncher,so that the fingers of the second rotary buncher engage the fabric indifferent spots from those engaged by the fingers oi the first rotarybuncher, thus, some of the bunches created by the first rotary buncherare upset by the fingers of the second rotary buncher, which, as amatter of fact, were previously modified by the movement of the fabricover the first stationary buncher la.

The above noted operations are repeated any desired number of times asthe fabric advances along succeeding fiat portions Ic, Id, Ie, If and Ig, for example, with the fabric, in each instance, first coming underthe influence of a rotary buncher and being pushed thereby over astationary buncher in the presence of moist heat admitted from the pipesIIc, Nd, Ile, I'If.

As the fabric passes over the stationary bunchers Ia, one after another,the marginal edges thereof are worked inwardly toward the centralportion of the fabric, by sliding down the inwardly and downwardlyinclined surfaces of the stationary bunchers. After leaving the lastrotary buncher of the series to, the fabric is pushed thereby onto theupper surface of the first rotary spreader 8a, which, as shown in Fig.lb, is of a convex construction, being of larger diameter at the centralvertical plane of the work table I than it is adjacent the side walls 2and 3 of the chamber 5, thus, as the convex roll to is rotated. thefabric is pushed onto its rotating surface and has a tendency to fall ofits own weight from the central portion of the surface of the rolltoward the opposite ends respectively thereof, thereby spreading thefabric laterally without placing it under any tension.

As shown in Fig. 5b, the axis of rotation of the convex roll 8a is belowthe cloth-carrying surface of the work table I. Thus,'the roll is notrequired to lift the fabric and place it under longitudinal tension.Preferably, the convex roll 8c is longitudinally fluted to provideloosenes in the fabric as it passes over the surface of the roll, thuspreventing tensioning of the fabric.

The spreading roll 8a delivers the fabric onto a downwardly inclinedsection In of the work table I, in the form of a newly arranged seriesof folds f2 which then come under the influence of the first rotarybuncher of the second series of units 61), 6b.

Intermediate the individual units of the second series of rotarybunchers, 6b, the work table I is provided'with a second series ofstationary bunchers 'Ib and with flat sections I2, I 1 and IA: of

the table I between said stationary bunchers. These fiat sectionsprovide for horizontal movement of the bunched fabric along the table I.The fabric receives substantially the same treatment by the rotarybunchers of the second series 6b and the associated stationary bunchersIb as it had received from the rotary buncher 6a and stationary buncher1a of the first series thereof. Moist heat is provided from thetransverse pipes I'Ig, IIh and Hi impinging steam against the fabric inthe manner previously described.

The last of the rotary bunchers of the series 6b pushes the fabriclongitudinally onto a second convex spreader roll 81), which, like thespreader roll 8a, rotates about an axis disposed preferably below thework table I.

The spreader roll 81) delivers the fabric in the form of rearrangedfolds f3 onto a downwardly inclined portion ll of the work table I, saidfolds being subjected to moist heat from the transverse pipe I11, Fig.5b. At the bottom of the incline I l, the fabric passes along ahorizontal portion Im of the work table I and comes under the influenceof the first unit of a third series of rotary bunchers 6c. The section|m of the work table I may or may not be provided withstationarybunchers, one of which is shown at 1c. The last buncher of theseries 60, Fig. 5c, delivers the fabric onto a convex spreader roll 80.The fabric again receives moist heat from the steam pipes l1k, whilepassing along the table section lm under the influence of the series ofrotary bunchers 60.

Intermediate the feeding aprons I 3 and i4, and the spreader roll 8c,the fabric, assuming it to have been dry or substantially dry when fedinto the chamber 5 by the rolls II and I2, will have preferably absorbednot more than 80% of the dry weight per square yard of the fabric inmoisture. While in this moist condition, the fabric is continuouslymaintained 'under longitudinal and transverse compression in the planeof the fabric, and is continuously worked over in a multiplicity ofever-changing local areas'by the rotary and stationary bunchers. Suchcontinuous working of the fabric in the presence of the moist heat, withthe fabric in a damp condition, causes a relative loosening of theindividual fibres in the component yarns or threads of the fabric andaffords a complete relaxation of the fibres from the tension under whichthe fibres had been placed during the manufacture of the yarn, and thesubsequent manufacture of the fabric from a multiplicity of such yarns.This relaxation from tension, and the loosening of the fibres withrespect to each other, permits the fibres of each component yarn orthread to change from the relatively straight form of Fig. 2, in whichthe fibres are deformed, to their normal or set state illustrated inFig. 3, where the set irregularities, including curves, bends, kinks,etc., are returned to the fibres. I

The return of the set irregularities of the fibres is further assistedas the fabric is dried, after leaving the spreading roll 80. For thispurpose, the fabric is delivered by the spreading roll 80 onto acarrying run of a horizontal belt conveyor 20, Figs. 5c and 5d. Theconveyor 20 travels in a horizontal plane through a drying chamber 2|,in which dry heat is circulated in the manner shown in Fig. 6.

As shown in Fig. 6, the drying chamber 2| is provided with a circulatingchamber 22 in which are installed air-heating pipes, or the equivalent,23, and a fan 24 by which air is drawn from the lower portion 25 of thechamber 2|, below the carrying run of the conveyor 20, and passedupwardly through the air heater 23 into the upper portion of the chamber2|, where the air travels transversely across the worked over fabric Fl,suitable deflectors 28, 26 being provided to cause the air movingtransversely of the chamber 2| to descend into contact with the fabricFl, thereby eifecting a drying of the fabric. After passing across theconveyor 20 with the fabric Fl thereon, the air passes through a secondcirculating chamber 21, by which it is directed into the lower portion25 of the drying chamber 2| for a repeat of the circulating cycle.Obviously, any suitable form of air-circulating means or air-heatingmeans may b provided.

Instead of permitting the fabric to lie in a quiescent state on theconveyor 20 as it is being dried, I prefer to work the fabriccontinuously during the drying thereof in a multiplicity of local areasthereof, and for this purpose, the conveyor 29 is preferably composedof-two series of relatively narrow bands 30a, 30a and 30b, 39b, arrangedin parallel alternating succession across the width of the dryingchamber 2|, as shown in Figs. 4c, 4d, and 7.

At the end of the drying chamber 2 adjacent the spreading roll 80, thebands 30a pass around wheels 3|, which are secured to a transverse shaft32. The shaft 32 is suitably mounted for rotation in the drier.Intermediate the tight wheels 3| on the shaft 32, the bands 30!) extendaround wheels 33, which are loosely mounted on the shaft 32.

At the opposite end of the dryer, the bands 39b pass around wheels 34,which are secured to the transverse shaft 35, mounted for rotation inthe dryer, while the bands 30a pass around inter- .mediate wheels 36,which are loosely mounted on the shaft 35.

On one end of the shaft 32 is seemed an elliptical gear 31, which mesheswith a corresponding elliptical gear 38 secured to a transverse shaft39, mounted for rotation outside the dryer chamber. The shaft 35 isprovided with an elliptical gear40,rigidly secured thereto, which mesheswith a corresponding elliptical gear 4|, secured to a transverse shaft42, mounted for rotation outside the dryer chamber. The shaft 42 iscoupled by miter gearing 43 to a longitudinal shaft 44, which is alsocoupled by miter gearing 45 with the shaft 39. The shaft 39 is providedwith a drive wheel 46, which is rotated by a belt or chain, etc., 41,from any suitable source of power, such as an electric motor, etc., (notshown).

As shown in Figs. 5c and 5d, the longer diameters of the ellipticalgears 31 and 40 on the shafts 32 and 35, respectively, are set at 90with respect to each other, i. e. when the elliptical gear 31 is in aposition with its longer diameter vertically disposed; the ellipticalgear 40 is in a position with its longer diameter horizontally disposed,as shown in Figs. 5c and 5d, respectively. The corresponding ellipticalgears 38 and 4| are likewise set at 90 apart.

The gears 38 and 4| are driven at constant, uniform speeds, andtransmit, through the elliptical gears, variable speeds to the shafts 32and.35, which, while rotating in the same direction, are eachaccelerated in one portion of each cycle of rotation and decelerated inanother portion of the cycle.

As a resultof the two series of conveyor bands 30a and 30b being drivenby the shafts 32 and 35, respectively, the carrying runs of these bands,while they move continuously in one direction through the drying chamber2|, are alternately accelerated and decelerated, i. e. the alternatebands will move under increased speed for a relatively short periodwhile the intermediate bands are moving at a slower speed, after whichthe intermediate bands will increase in speed while the alternate bandsdecrease in speed, thus, these portions of the width of the fabric lyingon the respective bands are constantly being moved with respect toimmediately adjacent portions of the width of the fabric.

The surface speed of the spreading roll is greater than the linear speedof the carrying run of the conveyor 20, thus, the roll 80 delivers thefabric Fl to the conveyor 29 in the form of transchamber 2 said chamberis provided with transversely extending rolls 50a and 50b, Figs. c and5d, respectively, which, as shown in Figs. 4c and 4d, respectively, arecorrugated throughout their length, said corrugations comprisingcircumferentialliextending high portions 5| alternating withcircumferentially extending low portions 52. The high portions 5|, 5| ofthe rolls 50a and "D are disposed in alignment, longitudinally of thechamber 2 l with the low circumferential portions 52, of each other.

As the fabric Fl is advanced through the drying. chamber 2l, it passesfirst over the roll 50a and then over the roll 50b. The corrugations ofthe roll 50a upset or disturb the positions of the folds or bunchings 13of the fabric Fl and redeposit the fabric Fl on the bands 30a, 30b ofthe conveyor 20 in a new arrangement illustrated at M in Figs. 5c and5d. The corrugated roll "b then lifts the fabric off the conveyor andupsets the bunchings ,fl and redeposits the fabric in a new arrangementof folds f5. In other words, the high and low parts of the rolls 50a and50b tumble the fabric about transversely as it is advanced by the bands30a and 30b,thus, the entire area of the fabric is undergoing a workingaction, both longitudinally and transversely, while the fabric is beingdried.

The constant overall working of the fabric permits the kinks, bends,etc., of the fibres to return to their set" condition. The fabric Fl isfinally passed over a delivery roll 55 adjacent the shaft 35 and passesfrom the drying chamber in, a dry, normalized state, as indicated at F2,Fig. 5d. The peripheral speed of the delivery roll 55 wouldsubstantially correspond to the peripheral speed of the feed rolls l land I2 and the feed aprons l3 and ll located at the opposite end of theapparatus less the reduction per yard eifected by the process accordingto the invention. The fabric F2, as delivered from the dryer 2|, may bepassed through any further finishing or additional processing that maybe desired without departing from the spirit of the present invention.

In some instances, due to processing of the fabric prior to its entranceinto the chamber 5, the moisture content of the fabric may be in excessof 100% of the weight of the fabric per square yard. Under suchcircumstances, the weight of the water itself prevents the return of thefibres to their set condition, should an attempt be made to normalizethe fibres under the process of the present invention. Under suchcircumstances, I prefer to reduce the moisture content to not more than80% of the dry weight of the fabric per square yard. prior to feedingthe fabric between the rolls II and I2 for entrance into the normalizingchamber 5. When such conditions are encountered, the fabric can be runthrough any suitable dryer, for example, an ordinary loop dryer or overdrying cans, etc., to reduce the moisture content. If desired, a dryersimilar to that illustrated in the present case, comprising the dryingchamber 2i with the differentially movable bands 30 and 30a, may beemployed ahead of the working or reducing chamber 5. The working of thewet fabric in the presence of hot circulating air will tend to lower themoisture content rapidly, preparatory to the entrance of the fabric intothe working or reducing chamber 5. Such predrying and constant workingof the fabric prior to its entrance into the main working chamber 5takes some shrinkage out of the fabric.

In order to operate the fabric working apparatus within the chamber 5 ata high rate of speed, for example, with the fabric passing into and outof the apparatus at the rate of 45 to 100 yards per minute, I providesuitable means for preventing the fabric from clinging to the fingersill of the rotary bunching units. In the present instance, this meanscomprises a series of stripper rings 60 for each of the rotary bunchingunits, as shown clearly in Figs. 4a and 5a.

As shown in Figs. 4a, 4b, 5a, 5b and 6, the fingers Ill are spaced apartalong the length of the hub section 9, in addition to being spaced apartcircumferentially of said hub section.

Preferably, there is a stripper ring 60 placed between each adjacentpair of fingers l0. Each stripper ring 60 is eccentrically disposed withrespect to the axis of rotation of the hub 9. Each ring 60 passes underthe hub section 9, and its axis of rotation is disposed above andforward of the axis of rotation of the hub section.

Each ring 60 is maintained in alignment with the space between the twofingers l0, ill, with which the ring cooperates by fitting into grooves5i formed in guide rolls 52, 63 and 64, the axes of which are spacedapart circumferentially of the stripper ring 60 and extend parallel tothe axis of the hub 9.

Located in a plane parallel to and intersecting the axis of the hub 9,the common axis of each set of rings 60, and the axis of the groovedroller 63, and engaging the inside surfaces of the rings 60 of each setthereof is a driving roller 85, which extends transversely of thechamber 5, parallel to and adjacent the guide roller 63.

The rings 60, associated with each of the rotary bunching units, aredriven at equal peripheral speeds which are in excess of the tip speedsof the fingers in of the rotary buncher with which the set of stripperrings is associated. The directions of rotation of the fingers Ill andthe set of rings 60 associated therewith are the same in each instance.Any fabric which may tend to adhere to the tips of the fingers will bestripped therefrom as the fingers rotate and recede between adjacentstripper rings 60. The circular paths traveled by the rings intersectthe circular paths traveled by the tips of the fingers l0. By thisarrangement the fabric is at all times cleared from the fingers.

The friction drive roller 65 for the rings 50 is preferably composed ofnatural or synthetic rubber, in order to provide a resilient frictioncontact with the inner surface of the rings 60. The driving rollers 65are formed about a transversely extending shaft 66.

It will be understood that the apparatus may include any suitable formof framework having suitably bearings for rotatably supporting thevarious feed rolls, rotary bunchers, spreader rolls, etc., and anysuitable means may be provided for driving these rotary elements at therelative speeds necessary for accomplishing the result desired, withoutdeparting from the spirit of the invention. In the present instance,sprocket wheels 61 and sprocket chains 68 are provided in lieu of belts,gears, or equivalent power-transmitting mechanism.

As shown in Figs. 4a, 4b and 4c, the steam pipes l'la, llb, etc., areconnected to a manifold 69, which, in turn, may be connected to anysuitable source of steam.

The humidity and temperature within the chamber 5 may be automaticallymaintained and controlled by the usual form of dry and wet bulbthermometers commonly used for such purposes.

I prefer to maintain a temperature of about 215 F. within the processingchamber and a dry temperature of about 240 F. upwardly in the dryingchamber 2|. However, these temperatures may be varied if and whenconditions require. For example, compact woven or braided fabrics mayrequire higher humidity and/or temperature than the more open knitted,netted or lace-twist fabrics.

Insofar as the fundamental principles of the present invention areconcerned, the process may be efficiently worked by relieving a piece offabric of all tension in all directions, steaming the fabric until itabsorbs moisture to the extent of from to 80% of its own dry weight, arange from to being the most desirable, constantly working the fabric byspreading the tips of the fingers of one or both hands over spaced localareas, respectively, of the fabric and drawing the fingers of each handtoward a common focal point to bunch the fabric up under each hand, thenrelaxing the fingers to release the fabric, spreading the fingers againover different local areas and repeating the bunching and relaxingoperation until the entire area of the fabric has been worked over manytimes as steam is being applied.

Such constant working of the fabric in everchanging localized areasthereof, in the presence of the heat and moisture absorbed from thesteam by the fabric, effectively releases the fibres so that the setirregularities of the fibres return thereto.

Where the working is continued during the drying, the time of working inthe presence of r.

the moist heat can be reduced and the return of the fibres to normalcyquickened.

Any apparatus which would simulate the massage-like Working of thefabric, or which would work the fabric in an equivalent manner tointermittently compress the fibres lengthwise thereof, could be used toput the process into commercial use without departing from the spirit ofthe invention.

Fig. 8 illustrates one modified form of apparatus for practicing themethod. In this instance the fabric is fed to a stationary work table Izin the same general manner as described with respect to the work tableI. Operating over the work table I2 is a series of longitudinal bunchersalternating with transverse bunchers in the same general manner asheretofore described. except that in this instance the bunchers are inthe form of rollers, preferably of the soft face type, which bearagainst the cloth and push it pass these along to the next right angletransnoted rollers, arranged in tandem. with spreader rolls between thesuccessive series, the same as previously noted with regard to thepreferred form of apparatus previously described.

It will be understood that steam is applied to the cloth in this casealso as the fabric is advanced along the work table Is by the rollersI06, I01, and that a drying unit may be used behind and/or in front ofthis shrinking unit, the same as previously noted. 7

Any suitable means may be employed to drive the various rollers I08.etc., I01, etc., without departing from the spirit. of the invention.

From the foregoing descriptions, it will be clear that any apparatuswhich will rumple the fabric repeatedly over its length and breadth, orwork or push the fabric inwardly or together in the direction of itslength and width repeatedly to cover substantially the entire area ofthe fabric, without placing any portion of the fabric under tension, andwhich will apply heat to initially wet fabrics or heat and moisture tosubstantially dry fabrics undergoing treatment in accordance with thepresent invention, will effect either a complete return of the setirregularities to the fibres, or partial return, depending upon thelength of time over which the treatment is continued, and willconsequently reduce shrinkage of the fabric to zero or to any percentageit may be desired to leave in the fabric.

I claim:

1. A process for shrinking textile fabrics, characterized bycompressively rumpling a fabric lengthwise and widthwise over its entirearea repeatedly in the presence of moisture and heat and constantlymaintaining the fabric free from tension during and intermediate therepeated rumplings thereof.

2. A processfor shrinking textile fabrics, characterized by alternatelybunching up and relaxing the fabric lengthwise and widthwise in spacedlocal areas over the length and breadth of the fabric repeatedly in thepresence of moisture and heat and constantly maintaining the fabric freefrom tension during and intermediate the repeated bunchings thereof.

3. A process for shrinking textile fabrics, characterized bycompressively working a fabric together lengthwise and widthwiserepeatedly in the presence of moisture and heat and constantlymaintaining the fabric free from tension during and intermediate therepeated workings thereof.

4. A process for shrinking textile fabrics, characterized bycompressively pushing a fabric lengthwise and widthwise repeatedly inthe presence of moisture and heat and constantly maintaining the fabricfree from tension during and intermediate the repeated pushings thereof.

5. A process for shrinking textile fabrics, characterized bycompressively pushing a fabric lengthwise at spaced intervals along asupporting surface and widthwise at intermediate intervals in thepresence of moisture and heat and constantly maintaining the fabric freefrom tension during and intermediate the repeated pushings thereof.

6. A process for shrinking textile fabrics, characterized bycompressively pushing a fabric lengthwise at spaced intervals along asupporting surface and widthwise at intermediate intervals in thepresence of moisture and heat, periodically spreading the fabric as itis pushed lengthwise aiong the support and constantly maintaining thefabric free from tension during and intermediate said pushings andspreadings.

.maintaining the fabric free from 7. A process for shrinking textilefabrics, characterized by repeatedly compressively rumpling a fabriclengthwise and widthwise over its length and width in the presence ofmoisture and heat and subsequently in the presence of circulating dryheat and constantly maintaining the fabric free from tension during andintermediate the repeated rumplings thereof.

8. A process for treating textile fabrics, characterized by repeatedlyrumpling a fabric compressively over its length and width in thepresence of dry heat and constantly maintaining the fabric free fromtension during and intermediate the repeated rumplings thereof.

9. A process for shrinking textile fabrics, characterized by repeatedlyrumpling a fabric compressively over its length and width in thepresence of dry circulating heat, then in the presence of moist heat,and finally in the presence of dry circulating heat and constantlymaintaining the fabric free from tension during and intermediate therepeated rumplings thereof.

10. A process for shrinking textile fabrics formed of threads composedof longitudinally tensioned fibres, characterized by working the threadsrepeatedly in the direction of their respective lengths over the lengthand breadth of the fabric in the presence of moisture and heat with thefabric in a non-saturated condition to reduce the tension on the-fibresand constantly tension during and intermediate said workings.

11. A process for shrinking textile fabrics formed of threads composedof longitudinally tensioned fibres, characterized by placing the threadsunder longitudinal compression repeatedly over the length and breadth ofthe fabric in the presence of moisture and heat to reduce the tension onthe fibres and constantly maintaining the fabric free from tension toafford said longitudinal compression of said fibres.

12. A process for shrinking textile fabrics formed of threads composedof longitudinally tensioned fibres, characterized by intermittentlyplacing the individual fibres under lengthwise compression lengthwiseand widthwise of the fabric in the presence of moisture and heat toreduce the tension on the individual fibres and constantly maintainingthe fabric free from tension to afford said longitudinal compression ofsaid fibres.

. directions at intervals 13. A process for shrinking and drying textilefabrics, characterized by compressively rumpling a fabric over and inthe direction of its length and breadth repeatedly in the presence ofmoisture and heat, feeding the rumpled fabric onto a forwardly movingbelt at a linear speed greater than the linear speed of the belt,applying dry heat to the fabric on the belt and constantly crating theforward motion of adjacent parallel sections of the fabric on the beltalternately, and applying dry heat to the fabric on the belt.

15. A process for shrinking and drying textile fabrics, characterized byrumpling a fabric over its length and breadth repeatedly in the presenceof moisture and heat, feeding the rumpled fabric onto a forwardly movingbelt at a. linear speed greater than the linear, speed of the belt,accelerating the forward motion of adjacent parallel sections of. thefabric on the belt alternately, tumbling the rumpled fabric laterally inopposite along the path traveled by the belt, and applying dry heat tothe fabric on the belt.

16. A process for drying textile fabrics, characterized by feeding afabric tensionless lengthwise and widthwise onto a forwardly moving beltat a linear speed in excess of the linear speed of the belt,accelerating the forward motion of adjacent parallel sections of thefabric on the belt alternately, and applying dry heat to the fabric onthe belt.

17. A process for drying textile fabrics, characterized by feeding afabric tensionless lengthwise and widthwise onto a forwardly moving beltat a linear speed in excess of the linear .speed of the belt,accelerating the forward motion of adjacent parallel sections of thefabric on the belt alternately, tumbling the rumpled fabric laterally inopposite directions at intervals along the path traveled by the belt,and applying dry heat to the fabric on the belt. A

FRANK R. REDMAN.

